FEELING YELLOW?

Shanghai: a manic metropolis seeminglyon the brink of anarchy yet safer than manyprovincial western towns. I was smitten for awhile) but it was not to last. The very thingsabout the city that once made me feel alivebegan to test my patience. Friends saidShanghai and I had a good thing going on butwe’d spent too much time together. I felt a littletime apart was needed.
A weekend in Huangshan was the obviouschoice. It didn’t disappoint. From virtually anyangle) the stunning Yellow Mountain (as it isotherwise known) knocks that showy metropolisinto a cocked hat. Shanghai may have iconicedifices like Jin Mao and the Pearl Tower) but sheis no match for the grand architectural designsof nature. Besides) Huangshan’s 72 toweringpeaks are not symbols of a nouveau richerenaissance. They are elements of a Chinesezeitgeist more than 1)200 years old – evidentin the work of Chinese painters and poets sincebefore the birth of Christ. There’s virtually noview that’s a bad one) and some) like the lookout from Heavenly Capital Peak) are pure class.To get the best out of a visit requires planning;there are many routes to follow. Desk jockeyswhose idea of exercise is a walk to the watercooler will have to pace themselves too. Thoughtamed by cable cars and laid paths) this is wildcountry) complete with leg-burning climbsand descents on scarily narrow) steep stonestaircases.
It’s best) though not essential) to base yourselfon the mountain and visit over two days. Xihai(West Sea) and Beihai (North Sea) hotels areideal. Both provide the only realistic way toexperience the cinematic splendour of a sunriseover Huangshan from the vantage point atRefreshing Terrace) a five-minute walk fromBehai Hotel.
If a 4am start seems a little ambitious) opt forthe sunset over Xihai instead. The evening vistamay deny you that most Huangshan of scenesa sea of mist coursing through the valley belowlike an ethereal ocean but it’s a perfect way toround off day one.
To make the sunset) start the day by takingthe Cloud Valley Temple cable car to thesummit. After checking into your hotel) spendthe remainder of the morning ambling alongthe relatively flat paths of the Behai area. StoneMonkey Gazing over the Sea and Beginningto Believe Peak are moderate diversions.Mid-afternoon) head for the Cloud DispellingTemple to witness the fabulous view over XihaiGorge. Here) lovers gather to SWALP – the actof sealing a union with a loving padlock byattaching it to chain railings. Locks are availablefrom all good mountain gift shops) priced atRMB 20-40. The best views of sundown are(thankfully) away from romantic gestures andcrowds – a 15-minute walk west toward theTaiping cable car.
Day two. If you are planning to leave the park bynightfall) a 15-kilometre traversal of the WesternSteps via Heavenly Capital Peak is a testing jauntamid many of Huangshan’s signature sights.
First) head to the high point of Bright SummitPeak for a 360-degree panorama of virtually allof Huangshan. From there) follow the path toJade Terrace of the West Sea) past Lotus Peak(currently closed)) and on to Heavenly CapitalPeak (open) though not for those fearful ofheights). Admire the views) marvel at just howfriendly many of the park’s wild animals are andjoin in with fellow visitors for a rowdy ‘shoutout’ – the echo potential of Huangshan’s manyvantage points is an amusing distraction.
Make sure you make it to the nearby JadeScreen Peak Cable Car by 4 pm or you could befacing your first lovers’ tiff. I didn’t. Having missedthe last car) I cursed my new beau all the waydown a nine-kilometre) knee-crippling staircaseto the carpark above the hot springs area.
Say what you like about Shanghai) at least shehas elevators) and they run all night. Huangshanmay be a stunner) but she was trouble in theend. I might have guessed.